Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Gloria in excelsis

As any nature writer knows, even the best description will fall far short of the actual experience. There is simply no substitute for being there. The best that any writer can do is strive to capture the moment and hope that the readers have some frame of reference for understanding.


I am quite sure that John Muir regularly felt this tension in his writings, and this explains why his writings are so extravagant in their exaltation of nature. He was pushing and straining the ability of mere words to explain that which is beyond words. Below is Muir's description of a morning in an Alaska fiord in 1879. Despite his grandiose talk of a holy vision of divine fire, I am confident that he felt that his description fell short.
A painting of the Muir Glacier by Thomas Hill
In the evening, after witnessing the unveiling of the majestic peaks and glaciers and their baptism in the down-pouring sunbeams, it seemed inconceivable that nature could have anything finer to show us. Nevertheless, compared with what was to come the next morning, all that was as nothing. The calm dawn gave no promise of anything uncommon. Its most impressive features were the frosty clearness of the sky and a deep, brooding stillness made all the more striking by the thunder of the newborn bergs. The sunrise we did not see at all, for we were beneath the shadows of the fiord cliffs; but in the midst of our studies, while the Indians were getting ready to sail, we were startled by the sudden appearance of a red light burning with a strange unearthly splendor on the topmost peak of the Fairweather Mountains. Instead of vanishing as suddenly as it had appeared, it spread and spread until the whole range down to the level of the glaciers was filled with the celestial fire. In color it was at first a vivid crimson, with a thick, furred appearance, as fine as the alpenglow, yet indescribably rich and deep—not in the least like a garment or mere external flush or bloom through which one might expect to see the rocks or snow, but every mountain apparently was glowing from the heart like molten metal fresh from a furnace. Beneath the frosty shadows of the fiord we stood hushed and awe-stricken, gazing at the holy vision; and had we seen the heavens opened and God made manifest, our attention could not have been more tremendously strained. When the highest peak began to burn, it did not seem to be steeped in sunshine, however glorious, but rather as if it had been thrust into the body of the sun itself. Then the supernal fire slowly descended, with a sharp line of demarcation separating it from the cold, shaded region beneath; peak after peak, with their spires and ridges and cascading glaciers, caught the heavenly glow, until all the mighty host stood transfigured, hushed, and thoughtful, as if awaiting the coming of the Lord. The white, rayless light of morning, seen when I was alone amid the peaks of the California Sierra, had always seemed to me the most telling of all the terrestrial manifestations of God. But here the mountains themselves were made divine, and declared His glory in terms still more impressive. How long we gazed I never knew. The glorious vision passed away in a gradual, fading change through a thousand tones of color to pale yellow and white, and then the work of the ice-world went on again in everyday beauty. The green waters of the fiord were filled with sun-spangles; the fleet of icebergs set forth on their voyages with the upspringing breeze; and on the innumerable mirrors and prisms of these bergs, and on those of the shattered crystal walls of the glaciers, common white light and rainbow light began to burn, while the mountains shone in their frosty jewelry, and loomed again in the thin azure in serene terrestrial majesty. We turned and sailed away, joining the outgoing bergs, while “Gloria in excelsis” still seemed to be sounding over all the white landscape, and our burning hearts were ready for any fate, feeling that, whatever the future might have in store, the treasures we had gained this glorious morning would enrich our lives forever.
John Muir, Travels in Alaska, 1915.

Monday, February 27, 2012

Wildflower report

I went for a nice walk with Sadie down to the Harpeth River. It's a beautiful, sunny 70º day. The following wildflowers were all observed in bloom. I'm not sure why, but our own hollow seemed to have the highest concentration of Toothworts and Spring Beauties.
Observed in the forest:
  • Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata)
  • Harbinger of Spring (Erigenia bulbosa)
  • Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica)
  • Yellow Corydalis (Corydalis flavula)
  • Common Blue Violet (Viola papilionacea) - Observed only in one location, high on an eastern facing ridge.
Observed in other areas:
  • Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum) - Mostly in our yard, and in sunny forest edges
  • Birdseye Speedwell (Veronica persica) - Only in our yard and in the disturbed floodplain of the river
  • Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) - Only a couple, in our yard
  • Star Chickweed (Stellaria pubera) - In disturbed floodplain of river
  • Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea) -  In disturbed floodplain of river
Other items of note:
  • Saw the first bumblebee of the season (on Lamium purpureum) in the front yard
  • 4 turtles sunning on a shoreline log in the Harpeth River
  • Lots of deer tracks in the mud down by the river
  • 2 Canada Geese (Branta canadensis) lazily hanging out in the river

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Moments in the sun

It was nice to spend some quiet time hanging out in the hollow today. I didn't go for a long walk or really have a  purpose other than time spent outdoors. Sometimes that's all it takes.

With our dog, Sadie, I wandered up the trail, stopping often to marvel at how quickly the forest floor is changing from brown to green. Coming up between and among the dry, brown leaves of last year's summer are Cutleaf Toothwort and Spring Beauty. Right now the visible plants are few and scattered, and their flowers are just beginning to open, but soon the forest floor will be a carpet of green highlighted with the dainty white & purple or white & pink blooms of Toothwort and Spring Beauty. I also saw the first emerging trillium (Trillium sessile) today.

Spring wildflowers must get their start early. When you live on the floor of a dark forest, it is important to come out early so you can get the sun before it is blocked by the trees towering overhead. Once the canopy closes in, very little sunlight filters through to the ground, thus the reason for the explosive growth of spring wildflowers. For the most part these species have their entire season of growing, reproducing, and getting ready for next year in the short time between the first warm weather and that time when sylvan shade darkens the woods again.

Last year's green carpet of Toothwort and Spring Beauty,
March 2011

Spring Beauty

Cutleaf Toothwort
Before the leaves come out, I am often struck by the stark, vertical lines that dominate the landscape as tulip poplar, maple, beech, and sycamore all reach for the sun in the shelter of the hollow. Until they get big, most of these trees don't waste their energy branching outward; they grow up, straight up, into the light.

Today I had paused to marvel at the beautiful color of the late afternoon sky, when quite suddenly a large turkey flew directly overhead, gliding down the hollow just above the tree tops. He soared to a spot near the house where he again disappeared into the forest, there to spend the night. A little later a barred owl called from the upper end of the hollow. Among the lengthening shadows, I stood and listened as it called again and again. Soon the sun would disappear behind the ridge and the hollow would slip into darkness, and for the time being these woods would be the owl's dominion.

Sunshine and darkness. Winter and springtime. Growth and rest. The days and the seasons cycle in the hollow, and I wonder whether I am ready for my next season.

Looking up


Friday, February 24, 2012

Listening to Erigenia bulbosa

I enjoy all the seasons, but right now I'm really looking forward to spring. There are many promises of spring in the hollow. The trees viewed from a distance blush maroon from developing buds; the leafy brown carpet across the forest floor is now spotted with bits of green; and the rarely noticed wildflower, Harbinger of Spring (Erigenia bulbosa), announces the coming spring with all the power its tiny voice can muster. Soon the grays and browns will give way to green and greener and spring will bust out all over.

Here's our house last April. That's our son, Joshua, with the lawn mower in the side yard.

Our house, April 2011  (click to enlarge)



Wildflower report

Wildflowers blooming in the hollow today:
  • Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata, formerly known as Dentaria laciniata)
  • Harbinger of Spring (Erigenia bulbosa)
  • Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica)
  • Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum) - mostly in the lawn
  • Birdseye Speedwell (Veronica persica) - limited to the lawn
It was fairly cold and windy today, so Toothwort and Spring Beauties had closed petals. Toothwort is very widespread on the west side of the hollow. Pretty soon whole areas of the forest floor will be covered with Toothwort.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Tree planting

I just finished planting a sapling Eastern Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) and four sapling American Holly (Ilex opaca) trees that I brought home from the southern Cumberland Plateau, near Altamont, Tennessee. I am keeping my fingers crossed that they will survive. I know that this isn't the time of year for transplanting trees, but the opportunity presented itself and I've been wanting to plant a few evergreen species around the house. Neither one of these trees is native to the forest around Nashville, but they are native to Tennessee. In a month or so I also plan to transplant a few Eastern Redcedars (Juniperus virginiana) from within our woods into strategic spots in the yard. Whether for the quick gratification of tomatoes or the long range perspective of trees, it feels good to care for a garden.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Wildflower report

After many signs of an early spring, the cold snap this weekend has halted the blooming wildflowers. It was down to 10ºF in the hollow Sunday morning and only 14º this morning. Only the tiny, wiry Harbinger of Spring (Erigenia bulbosa) seems to be equipped to tough it out. No sign of blooms on anything else.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Back to basics to feel more connected


Like many backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts, I have all the latest, hottest, must-have gear that a gear junkie would want. I have and use a pair of ultralight carbon fiber trekking poles, titanium cookware, clothing made out of the newest wonder fabric, and a tiny, featherweight, silnylon tarp shelter with bivy. The latest, greatest, and lightest gear is hard to resist. It promises to make my adventures more carefree and enjoyable.

The trouble is that as I spend more time in the woods, I find myself gravitating back to the old-fashioned, tried-and-true, traditional gear. When I head out the door, I almost always grab a wooden walking stick and leave the carbon fiber trekking poles in the closet. There’s just something about the feel of a simple wooden walking stick. I don’t know what it is, but it just feels “right.” Recently I picked up a wool jac shirt, and I find that I much prefer its feel to my more sophisticated Polartec® fleece jacket. The wool jacket may be a little heavier, but it seems to keep me warmer and does a much more effective job of blocking the wind. I also rest easy in the knowledge that it will not melt away at the first touch of a campfire spark. While we’re at it, why would anyone want to use a plastic line tensioner thingy for their tent’s guidelines when a good old-fashioned taut-line hitch is simpler and works better? Sometimes you just can’t beat the classics.

Come and Get It!
by Norman Rockwell
Who knows where this will lead? First thing you know I’ll be looking to trade in my trusty titanium “spork” for a plain old fork and spoon. Who knows, maybe I’ll even start cooking more on a campfire with real pots and pans. Trust me, the appeal of just adding boiling water to a foil pouch of freeze-dried food-like stuff loses its appeal after a few hundred meals. Give me real food cooked in a real pot over a real fire, and you’ll find me smiling.

Last November, on a weekend camping trip with our Boy Scout troop, I spent most of the weekend dressed in blue jeans and a cotton flannel shirt instead of my normal nylon zip-off pants and a shirt made of wonder wicking Capilene®. The weather was easy and I didn't have to worry about weight, but I realized by the end of the trip that I hadn't felt so relaxed and comfortable while camping in a long time.

Does all of this mean that I’ll give up the trekking poles, titanium cookware, and my silnylon shelter? Probably not. These ultralight wonders of engineering still have their place, and there’s certainly no virtue in merely being older or heavier. But there is a reason traditional gear is still around: It works, it works well, and it always will.

Perhaps I’m just becoming an old fuddy-duddy, but I think there’s something deeper here. I think there’s something intrinsically comforting about the feel of wood and wool that will never be matched by carbon fiber and polyethylene terephthalate. I don’t know what it is, but I also think there’s something naturally satisfying and connecting about cooking a meal from real ingredients over an open fire. And aren’t these feelings of contentment and connection why we go into the forest in the first place?
1960 Scouts Winter Camping


Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Perspectives on age: 52, 102, 300

Beth, Joshua, Hannah, & me.
Today was a day of reflection and thanksgiving for me. This is the 52nd anniversary of my birth, and I am a very grateful man. I feel fortunate to have great parents who have loved and nurtured me for more than half a century. I am grateful that I am married to an amazing & beautiful woman who understands my need to walk in wild places. I am convinced that our moving into this hollow a year ago is only because of her love and prayers. It is also because of Beth that I get to be the father of two great kids. Her devotion as a mother makes it fairly easy to be at least a decent dad. This may sound silly, but on more than one occasion I have said, "I can't believe I get to be me!"

On my honor
I also think it's pretty cool that I share a birthday with the Boy Scouts of America, which started in 1910. I guess it's only appropriate that I was born on the 50th anniversary of the BSA. I know that Scouting has improved my life in ways beyond what I'll ever even know, and I feel like I've got one of the greatest jobs in the world being the Scoutmaster of Troop 17. The goal of Scouting is to train young men to be adults who value citizenship, character, and fitness. I know for sure that it has made me a better man.

I am also grateful that our family gets to live in such a wondrous place. Every day I get to walk these woods and feel the peace and timelessness of the forest. Today I was able to measure an old beech that I believe is the oldest in the hollow. The amazing thing is that it escaped my notice until just the other day. It's on the side of a steep hill and obscured from the view of the trail I've been walking.

Ancient beech tree, probably over 300 years old
Because of the hill, measurements are difficult, but it appears likely that this beech tree is about 300 years old. It is hollow, so we can never know for sure, but the most conservative calculations place it at 279 years. A more generous measurement places the tree as 366 years old. This old man of the forest is no longer growing; its crown broke out and rotted away some time ago. Since the calculations are for still-growing trees in prime environments, it may be that the higher estimate is more correct. Whatever the exact age, this tree is clearly very old, and that gives me some perspective on turning 52. I wouldn't doubt it if this old tree is still here when I am gone from these woods.

If only trees could talk! What would this old sentinel of the forest tell us? Would this beech be more comfortable by its Cherokee name, gusv? How many thunderstorms has it endured? Fires? What's the deepest snow it has ever seen? What has changed and what has remained the same in this timeless forest?

I know that I will revisit this tree often. It is my hope that we will become friends, that I will grow to feel something of its sense of time, that I too will grow wise and strong, enduring storm and hardship, and enjoying the peace of the forest. Maybe one day I too will be the old man of the forest.

Monday, February 6, 2012

A sacred trust

"The good citizen knows that the land is a sacred trust. He feels that, when he passes it on to future generations, it must be as good as when he found it, or better."
-- Sigurd Olson, "Conservation and Citizenship," Gopher Historian, April 1953.
(Borrowed from the Sigurd F. Olson Web Site quote for the month of Feb. 2012)

Virgin Falls, Tenn., Nov. 2010
Some places are of such intrinsic wonder that we, as stewards of the earth, should preserve them forever. Virgin Falls is one such magical place. The falls are formed by an underground stream that emerges from a cave, flows downhill about 50 feet, then drops over a 110-foot high cliff before disappearing into another cave at the bottom, giving the impression of a freestanding waterfall with no river. The wonders of this amazing place are free to anyone willing to walk an 8 mile round-trip trail. To leave this area anything but pristine would be unconscionable.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Wildflower report

Wildflowers blooming in the hollow today
In the woods:
  • Harbinger of Spring (Erigenia bulbosa)
  • Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica)
  • Cutleaf Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata, formerly known as Dentaria laciniata)
In the yard:
  • Birdseye Speedwell (Veronica persica)
  • Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum)
  • Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)